| Fabric Focus | Send this article to a friend | ||||||
| Print this Article | |||||||
| Close Window | |||||||
What an inspirationAs fashion turns for its inspiration to Victoriana, fabric focus decided to look at some real Victorian and Edwardian fabrics and garments to examine where this inspiration comes from. The dresses and outfits have been collected together in an exhibition of the Messel dress collection, in the Brighton Museum & Art Gallery from October 22nd until January next year.
The current pages of Vogue and other fashion publications are full of black fustian, heavy damasks, velvet collars, braided sleeves and figured silks, many in dark, sombre colours, with much use of jet and beading, as on key coats by such designers as Mariucca Prada. Many of the darker details are taken from Victorian mourning dress, which appeals to modern taste. Accessories prove the finishing touches, with velvet, lace and satin used for sashes, trimmings and gloves, and for mainly black, lacy, hosiery. The authentic garments on show at Brighton are on loan to Brighton Museum from Linley Sambourne House, Lord Snowdon and the Earl of Rosse. Photographs of the aristocratic and artistic family members who wore them are assembled in a collection stretching from the 19th to the late 20th century. The original garments themselves, which were commissioned from the most creative designers of the day, can be seen in close proximity.
Exhibition curator Eleanor Thompson gave Fabric Focus an exclusive insight into some of the fascinating fabrics used in the Messel family collection, which serves at the same time to chart some of the high spots of the British textile industry. "Many evening dresses dating from 1900 - 1960 are made of fine and luxurious fabrics, including satin duchesse, silk, silk chiffon, georgette, tulle and silk velvet. Many of these are trimmed with unusual antique buckles and antique lace. The 1920s evening coats, worn by Maud Messel, were embroidered with metallic threads and trimmed with fur, including monkey fur. Etiquette correct Edwardian daywear was made of wool flannel and wool face cloth while country suits were made of 2x2 rough twill tweed, probably of Scottish Border manufacture. Clothing worn by Anne, Countess of Rosse after her second marriage to the Earl of Rosse of County Offaly Ireland, utilised the distinctive fabrics of Ireland, Irish tweed, linen and crochet." Comment Readers will recognise the key words in the commentary as the driving forces of the fashion fabrics which will be seen in Paris this month! The extraordinary feature is the relevance of these beautiful designs to the ornate yet understated decorative fabrics and opulent weaves which are currently in vogue. The influence is moving from the couture collections into the High Street, so the fabrics which we were talking about as one of the hot trends in the exhibitions a few months ago - satins, silks and damasks, velvets and lace - are being translated into the 21st century equivalent of understated yet expensive day wear, tailored coats and jackets and high necked blouses. The exhibition runs from 22 October 2005 to 5 March 2006 at Brighton Museum and later will be moving to the Ulster Museum. If you have a new fabric, yarn or fibre development or trend information you would like us to know about and perhaps feature, please contact Janet Prescott via janet@director-e.com or by phone on 00 44 (0)1943 603509. Fashion and fabrics editor: Janet Prescott Close Window
|
|||||||
