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Premiere Vision - Accent on QualityThe focus on fabric this week is the trends which came out of Premiere Vision.One of the most spectacular events in the week was the 40th anniversary celebrations of Lenzing Modal. To fete the occasion Lenzing hosted a press conference and reception in the Tour Montparnasse, on the 57th floor, with a 350o view of Paris spread out beneath. Lenzing Modal Every Wear is billed as the softest fibre in the world, and with its Micro version it accounts for € 500million turnover per annum, demanding the provision of 100million swing tickets in 2005. . It is used for clothing by such designers as Armanci Cavali and Versace as well as in the mass market and increasingly for home textiles and technical fabrics for example for medical uses. Mixed with cotton, with which it has a dye affinity, it retains its colour after hard wear.
It was billed as one of the modern success stories, with new applications continuing to be found. Its sustainable development, with beech trees being the source, gives it a topical eco appeal. 'It is simply everywhere' said Fritz Weniger, playing on the slogan 'every wear'. The main trends at the PV exhibition were a continuing move to quality, unashamedly expensive fabrics. Wool was mixed with cashmere, alpaca and silk in complex weaves for both men's suitings and women's wear. Colours were in the brown, grey spectrum for men, womenswear featured jewel tweeds, soft, country colours and the natural tones of Shetland and lambswool. Double face cloths and brushed and blurred looks softened the tone. Prints were ornate: paisleys, florals, often on dark grounds like brown gave a rich, ornamented look, with several patterns mixed on the same fabric. There were interesting mixes of different fibres: linen and silk and wool, polyester, wool and cashmere. The mix was to present different aesthetic effects, knops, boucés or a particular sheen.
Many fabrics, such as at Lauffenmuhle had technical finishes, washout looks and soft, worn effects. Trevira Perform fabrics showed the wide range of different aspects, stretch, anti bacterial and anti UV which are now expected from many garments. The weights were light, airy and puffed up, with soft wools, fine linens with sophisticated structures at the Masters of Linen stand, and an emphasis on comfort and ease. Jerseys were striped in unusual colour combinations, lilac, green and brown for instance, while checks and recoloured tartans are a trend for overcoats, which are a continuing fashion focus. Large scale 1950s bold designs, checks, herringbones and Prince of Wales were a feature for coatings. Many fabrics had a comfortable, faded finish, which looked soft and aged rather than worn. Washout denims and cottons predominated in the casual sector. Fabrics for 2006/7 have to perform, to look good, be comfortable, and quality is paramount. If you have a new fabric, yarn or fibre development or trend information you would like us to know about and perhaps feature, please contact Janet Prescott via janet@director-e.com or by phone on 00 44 (0)1943 603509. Fashion and fabrics editor: Janet Prescott Close Window
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